Nov
13
Composition in Wildlife Photography - Simple Tips for Beginners
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Andrew Goodall asked:
photography offers particular challenges in composition, especially for beginners. You not only have to create a compelling composition (which is tough enough in itself), you also face a subject which may or may not want to cooperate.
I can’t help you much with an uncooperative subject. Rest assured that with practice and experience, you will find that you become much quicker at composing and exposing a photo so that you get the shot before the critical moment passes. There are a couple of simple tips that can make things a little easier.
First, practice your photography in places where the animals are used to having people around and are less likely to become jittery at your presence. This does not have to be a zoo or other enclosure. Most national parks have campgrounds and picnic grounds where the wildlife is used to being around people, and may even come closer looking for food. You have a much better chance of a shot if you can get close without frightening the subject away.
Second, try to organise your exposure before you set up the shot. If the light is fairly constant, it is possible to point your camera in the right general direction and work out the best aperture and shutter speed settings for the photo. Then when you approach the subject, you can concentrate on composition without having to waste time working out your exposure.
These simple tips may help to take some of the frustration out of wildlife photography, but what about the composition itself? Many people simply don’t know where to start. If that sounds like you, don’t be discouraged. Like I said at the beginning, composition can be tough; even for a photographer with years of experience.
Let’s start by breaking it down into two categories; close-up and non close-up photos.
In a close-up photo, the subject fills most of the frame. A lot of people get in a tangle over whether to position their subject in the middle or to one side of the composition. In my experience it is quite acceptable to have the subject right in the centre, as long as you allow some head-room so it doesn’t appear too cramped within the confines of the composition. A central position is especially suitable when the subject is looking straight at the camera, but often works just as well if the subject is facing a little to one side or the other.
The more space you have around the subject, the more you should consider putting it to one side or the other. In this you should be guided by the way the animal is facing. If it is looking to one side, position it a little towards the other side so it is looking toward the centre of the frame. So, if your wildlife subject is looking right, position it a little to the left. Not too far; you don’t want half of your photo to feature nothing but empty space.
In a non close-up, where the photo shows a lot more space around the animal, it becomes more critical that you use that space effectively. In situations where the animal is featured with a lot of background, it may be better to think of the picture as a landscape photograph, and compose it accordingly. Some of the tried-and-true techniques like the Rule Of Thirds (google it if you are not familiar with it) are a good way to help you position your subject within the overall frame of the picture.
For a landscape style photo, it may look quite unbalanced to position your subject in the centre of the picture. It is usually better to position it to one side or the other, and it is now even more important to have the animal facing toward the centre of the picture. The eyes of the subject have the power to guide the viewer to look in the direction the subject is looking. So if the animal is on the left and looking left, the visual flow of the composition will lead out of the picture, instead of into it. If the subject is on the left and looking right, the viewer will follow the gaze of the subject into the centre of the picture.
Naturally it helps if there is something of interest in the centre or to the right to catch the viewer’s attention and add interest to the composition. If the subject is looking into the composition, it makes sense that it is looking at something, not just at empty space. Almost anything will do…a tree, a beach, an impressive sky; as long as it adds impact to the composition. If there is nothing of interest to work with, you might consider zooming in closer, so there is less emptiness in the composition.
These simple guidelines are intended to do nothing more than give you some ideas. Nature is not governed by the rules of composition, and a wildlife photographer must be flexible to get the best result out of each situation. Above all, trust your own judgement, your own sense of visual balance, to create a satisfying composition. On the other hand, if you are struggling to get started, think back to these guidelines; if you can position your subject well, the rest of the composition will fall into place.
LUKE
photography offers particular challenges in composition, especially for beginners. You not only have to create a compelling composition (which is tough enough in itself), you also face a subject which may or may not want to cooperate.
I can’t help you much with an uncooperative subject. Rest assured that with practice and experience, you will find that you become much quicker at composing and exposing a photo so that you get the shot before the critical moment passes. There are a couple of simple tips that can make things a little easier.
First, practice your photography in places where the animals are used to having people around and are less likely to become jittery at your presence. This does not have to be a zoo or other enclosure. Most national parks have campgrounds and picnic grounds where the wildlife is used to being around people, and may even come closer looking for food. You have a much better chance of a shot if you can get close without frightening the subject away.
Second, try to organise your exposure before you set up the shot. If the light is fairly constant, it is possible to point your camera in the right general direction and work out the best aperture and shutter speed settings for the photo. Then when you approach the subject, you can concentrate on composition without having to waste time working out your exposure.
These simple tips may help to take some of the frustration out of wildlife photography, but what about the composition itself? Many people simply don’t know where to start. If that sounds like you, don’t be discouraged. Like I said at the beginning, composition can be tough; even for a photographer with years of experience.
Let’s start by breaking it down into two categories; close-up and non close-up photos.
___________________________________________________________________
In a close-up photo, the subject fills most of the frame. A lot of people get in a tangle over whether to position their subject in the middle or to one side of the composition. In my experience it is quite acceptable to have the subject right in the centre, as long as you allow some head-room so it doesn’t appear too cramped within the confines of the composition. A central position is especially suitable when the subject is looking straight at the camera, but often works just as well if the subject is facing a little to one side or the other.
The more space you have around the subject, the more you should consider putting it to one side or the other. In this you should be guided by the way the animal is facing. If it is looking to one side, position it a little towards the other side so it is looking toward the centre of the frame. So, if your wildlife subject is looking right, position it a little to the left. Not too far; you don’t want half of your photo to feature nothing but empty space.
In a non close-up, where the photo shows a lot more space around the animal, it becomes more critical that you use that space effectively. In situations where the animal is featured with a lot of background, it may be better to think of the picture as a landscape photograph, and compose it accordingly. Some of the tried-and-true techniques like the Rule Of Thirds (google it if you are not familiar with it) are a good way to help you position your subject within the overall frame of the picture.
For a landscape style photo, it may look quite unbalanced to position your subject in the centre of the picture. It is usually better to position it to one side or the other, and it is now even more important to have the animal facing toward the centre of the picture. The eyes of the subject have the power to guide the viewer to look in the direction the subject is looking. So if the animal is on the left and looking left, the visual flow of the composition will lead out of the picture, instead of into it. If the subject is on the left and looking right, the viewer will follow the gaze of the subject into the centre of the picture.
Naturally it helps if there is something of interest in the centre or to the right to catch the viewer’s attention and add interest to the composition. If the subject is looking into the composition, it makes sense that it is looking at something, not just at empty space. Almost anything will do…a tree, a beach, an impressive sky; as long as it adds impact to the composition. If there is nothing of interest to work with, you might consider zooming in closer, so there is less emptiness in the composition.
These simple guidelines are intended to do nothing more than give you some ideas. Nature is not governed by the rules of composition, and a wildlife photographer must be flexible to get the best result out of each situation. Above all, trust your own judgement, your own sense of visual balance, to create a satisfying composition. On the other hand, if you are struggling to get started, think back to these guidelines; if you can position your subject well, the rest of the composition will fall into place.
LUKE
Oct
9
Wildlife Photography: Avoid These Five Common Mistakes
Filed Under Art And Entertainment | Comments Off
Andrew Goodall asked:
photography is both rewarding and frustrating, even for experienced photographers. While a great photo is something to treasure, the challenges of wildlife photography can leave beginners feeling a little lost.
“It was wonderful to be there, but this photo doesn’t really do it justice.” Does this sound familiar? Too often we have a great experience in nature, and even though we have our camera at the ready, we fail to get the shot. This is not because the camera lets us down; it is because in our rush to get a photo - any photo - we fall victim to any one of a number of mistakes that can ruin a good wildlife photography opportunity.
Here are five common mistakes in wildlife photography, and some simple tips to overcome them.
Mistake #1. Fail To Get Close Enough To The Subject. This is probably the most obvious mistake you can make. You may see a bird in a tree, but your photo turns out to be all tree and no bird. In wildlife photography, the ‘less is more’ approach is often best. Ask yourself what is important for your photo, and eliminate everything else. In most cases you are best to get as close as possible to the subject, and/or zoom in with your largest lens. This eliminates the distraction of the background so that the viewer’s attention is entirely on the subject itself.
Mistake #4. Distracting Depth of Field. This is closely related to mistake #1. When you set your camera to automatic, you allow it to set your aperture and shutter speed settings for you. To get the best results, you need to make these decisions for yoursef. If you take your photos on a small aperture setting, you increase the depth of field around the subject, allowing the background to become more of a distraction. You are better to set the widest aperture setting you can. This narrows the depth of field, concentrating the focus on the animal. As an added bonus, it will also allow a faster shutter speed, which helps to freeze a moving subject.
In these situtions, try zooming back just a little, to allow a little ‘headroom’ around the animal. There should be at least a small amount of space above the head, and on each side. If the animal is facing to one side, adjust your composition so that there is a little more space in front of the subject than behind it. That way the animal will be looking into the picture, not at the edge of the frame.
Mistake #4. Poor Lighting. We all love to get out and about on sunny days, but these are not necessarily the best conditions for a good photo. Bright sunshine produces shadow where you many not want them; in particular across the face of the subject. In the middle of the day when the light shines from above, you can find that most of the face and all of the underside of the subject is lost in dark shadow.
The solution? If it is a sunny day, take your photos early in the morning or late in the afternoon, when the sun is at a lower angle. You will also find lower contrast and warmer colour in the light, adding character to the whole photo.
In many cases it is best to take your photos on a cloudy day, when the light is even and the contrast is low. This light can work best for some subjects by completely eliminating glare and heavy shadow.
Mistake #5. Bad Timing. Animals move, they blink, they turn their heads, they flap their wings…sometimes it seems they are on a mission to foil your best attempts at a good photo.
In every wildlife encounter, there are a thousand opportunities to take a bad photo, and maybe one or two opportunities to take a good photo. A nature photographer learns to be ready for that perfect moment.
Above all, this is a matter of patience. You need to spend as much time as possible with your subject, and take a lot of photos. Expect most of them to be rubbish, but take delight in the good ones because they are hard to come by. In particular, watch the animal’s movements and behaviour. The trick is to try to catch a moment that expresses something unique to set your photo apart from millions of others. You won’t get that perfect shot every time, but when you do it is a moment to treasure.
FLETCHER
photography is both rewarding and frustrating, even for experienced photographers. While a great photo is something to treasure, the challenges of wildlife photography can leave beginners feeling a little lost.
“It was wonderful to be there, but this photo doesn’t really do it justice.” Does this sound familiar? Too often we have a great experience in nature, and even though we have our camera at the ready, we fail to get the shot. This is not because the camera lets us down; it is because in our rush to get a photo - any photo - we fall victim to any one of a number of mistakes that can ruin a good wildlife photography opportunity.
Here are five common mistakes in wildlife photography, and some simple tips to overcome them.
Mistake #1. Fail To Get Close Enough To The Subject. This is probably the most obvious mistake you can make. You may see a bird in a tree, but your photo turns out to be all tree and no bird. In wildlife photography, the ‘less is more’ approach is often best. Ask yourself what is important for your photo, and eliminate everything else. In most cases you are best to get as close as possible to the subject, and/or zoom in with your largest lens. This eliminates the distraction of the background so that the viewer’s attention is entirely on the subject itself.
Mistake #4. Distracting Depth of Field. This is closely related to mistake #1. When you set your camera to automatic, you allow it to set your aperture and shutter speed settings for you. To get the best results, you need to make these decisions for yoursef. If you take your photos on a small aperture setting, you increase the depth of field around the subject, allowing the background to become more of a distraction. You are better to set the widest aperture setting you can. This narrows the depth of field, concentrating the focus on the animal. As an added bonus, it will also allow a faster shutter speed, which helps to freeze a moving subject.
___________________________________________________________________
In these situtions, try zooming back just a little, to allow a little ‘headroom’ around the animal. There should be at least a small amount of space above the head, and on each side. If the animal is facing to one side, adjust your composition so that there is a little more space in front of the subject than behind it. That way the animal will be looking into the picture, not at the edge of the frame.
Mistake #4. Poor Lighting. We all love to get out and about on sunny days, but these are not necessarily the best conditions for a good photo. Bright sunshine produces shadow where you many not want them; in particular across the face of the subject. In the middle of the day when the light shines from above, you can find that most of the face and all of the underside of the subject is lost in dark shadow.
The solution? If it is a sunny day, take your photos early in the morning or late in the afternoon, when the sun is at a lower angle. You will also find lower contrast and warmer colour in the light, adding character to the whole photo.
In many cases it is best to take your photos on a cloudy day, when the light is even and the contrast is low. This light can work best for some subjects by completely eliminating glare and heavy shadow.
Mistake #5. Bad Timing. Animals move, they blink, they turn their heads, they flap their wings…sometimes it seems they are on a mission to foil your best attempts at a good photo.
In every wildlife encounter, there are a thousand opportunities to take a bad photo, and maybe one or two opportunities to take a good photo. A nature photographer learns to be ready for that perfect moment.
Above all, this is a matter of patience. You need to spend as much time as possible with your subject, and take a lot of photos. Expect most of them to be rubbish, but take delight in the good ones because they are hard to come by. In particular, watch the animal’s movements and behaviour. The trick is to try to catch a moment that expresses something unique to set your photo apart from millions of others. You won’t get that perfect shot every time, but when you do it is a moment to treasure.
FLETCHER
Sep
25
Wildlife Photography: the Secret is in the Eyes
Filed Under Art And Entertainment | Comments Off
Andrew Goodall asked:
photography can be one of the most challenging fields a new photographer can take on. Not only do you have all the challenges of everyday photography, but you also have to deal with a subject that has no interest in having its photo taken.
For an experienced photographer, there are so many things one would love to pass on to beginners to help them get started. Good lighting is essential. Timing and composition are subtle arts that come with lots of patience and experience. But what is the one golden rule of wildlife photography that one should learn above all else?
It’s all in the eyes.
Photographing wildlife is not the same as photographing a landscape or an inanimate object. Your wildlife subject has eyes, and our natural tendency as humans is to make eye contact. As a result, if you can capture the eyes effectively in a wildlife photograph, you have achieved the main ingredient of a great image.
Take a look at some of the great wildlife photography to be found in print and on the internet. You will notice that very often a picture only shows part of the animal, and perhaps much of what is visible is out of focus. The subject may be half-hidden behind a bush or lost in shadow.
What’s even more remarkable is that the subject does not have to be looking at the camera for the eyes to have impact on the picture. With our natural instinct to try to make eye contact, we are inclined to look first at the eyes of a subject and to follow its gaze. So if the subject is looking to the left, our eyes will tend to wander in that direction.
Imagine the power this can have in a composition. By using the position of the subject and the direction of its gaze, you can actually influence the way your viewer looks at your picture. For example, imagine a scene with a kangaroo and a striking tree in the background. Position yourself so the kangaroo is on the left and the tree is on the right. If you take your shot when the kangaroo is looking to the right (towards the tree), you will have created a composition that brings the two elements of the picture together. People will first notice the kangaroo, then follow its gaze to take a better look at the tree.
This is a great method of creating structure in your composition, but it also adds a little bit of pressure on you to get it right.
Two simple tips can help you make the most of the impact of the eyes in your wildlife photo. First, take your photo when the light is soft and even, to avoid lots of hard shadows across the face of the subject. This is a simple matter of shooting early or late in the day when the sun is low, or on cloudy days when shadows are not a problem.
Secondly, make sure the subject is facing toward the centre of the photo. Remember that just as the eyes can lead the viewer into the picture, they can also lead the viewer out of the picture. When your animal subject is on the right, try to catch it facing left (and vice-versa).
These are just simple guidelines. As in all nature photography, every rule is made to be broken. You will sometimes find situations where these tips just don’t work for your picture. You may even decide to break with convention from time to time, just to create a different kind of impact. However, even when you decide to try something different, never forget the power of the eyes in your wildlife photography. In most cases, it means the difference between a snapshot and something really special.
JESS
photography can be one of the most challenging fields a new photographer can take on. Not only do you have all the challenges of everyday photography, but you also have to deal with a subject that has no interest in having its photo taken.
For an experienced photographer, there are so many things one would love to pass on to beginners to help them get started. Good lighting is essential. Timing and composition are subtle arts that come with lots of patience and experience. But what is the one golden rule of wildlife photography that one should learn above all else?
It’s all in the eyes.
Photographing wildlife is not the same as photographing a landscape or an inanimate object. Your wildlife subject has eyes, and our natural tendency as humans is to make eye contact. As a result, if you can capture the eyes effectively in a wildlife photograph, you have achieved the main ingredient of a great image.
Take a look at some of the great wildlife photography to be found in print and on the internet. You will notice that very often a picture only shows part of the animal, and perhaps much of what is visible is out of focus. The subject may be half-hidden behind a bush or lost in shadow.
___________________________________________________________________
What’s even more remarkable is that the subject does not have to be looking at the camera for the eyes to have impact on the picture. With our natural instinct to try to make eye contact, we are inclined to look first at the eyes of a subject and to follow its gaze. So if the subject is looking to the left, our eyes will tend to wander in that direction.
Imagine the power this can have in a composition. By using the position of the subject and the direction of its gaze, you can actually influence the way your viewer looks at your picture. For example, imagine a scene with a kangaroo and a striking tree in the background. Position yourself so the kangaroo is on the left and the tree is on the right. If you take your shot when the kangaroo is looking to the right (towards the tree), you will have created a composition that brings the two elements of the picture together. People will first notice the kangaroo, then follow its gaze to take a better look at the tree.
This is a great method of creating structure in your composition, but it also adds a little bit of pressure on you to get it right.
Two simple tips can help you make the most of the impact of the eyes in your wildlife photo. First, take your photo when the light is soft and even, to avoid lots of hard shadows across the face of the subject. This is a simple matter of shooting early or late in the day when the sun is low, or on cloudy days when shadows are not a problem.
Secondly, make sure the subject is facing toward the centre of the photo. Remember that just as the eyes can lead the viewer into the picture, they can also lead the viewer out of the picture. When your animal subject is on the right, try to catch it facing left (and vice-versa).
These are just simple guidelines. As in all nature photography, every rule is made to be broken. You will sometimes find situations where these tips just don’t work for your picture. You may even decide to break with convention from time to time, just to create a different kind of impact. However, even when you decide to try something different, never forget the power of the eyes in your wildlife photography. In most cases, it means the difference between a snapshot and something really special.
JESS
Sep
18
Wildlife Photography - Eliminating an Unwanted Background
Filed Under Art And Entertainment | Comments Off
Andrew Goodall asked:
Wildlife photography is such an inspirational field; it is easy to see why so many photographers, both amateur and professional, become fascinated by this rewarding pursuit.
Choosing a good subject for a wildlife photo is never difficult. The variety of characters in the animal kingdom provides a never-ending source of material. Even better, some of the best subjects can be found in the cities, even in our own backyards. You don’t have to be an intrepid world traveller to enjoy a satisfying hobby as a wildlife photographer.
It can be a real challenge to capture a natural looking photo in a suburban setting. If you can eliminate any man-made distractions from your photo, you can create the illusion of an image captured in a totally natural environment.
A bad background can really spoil the impact of a good wildlife subject, but how do we avoid it? Of course these days there are plenty of people who would just edit it out using a computer, but (believe it or not) most people still prefer to rely on their camera skills rather than on software.
Here are some simple tips to help you eliminate a bad background from your wildlife photos.
The first thing to do is simply position yourelf to find the best angle to take your photo. Imagine you are trying to photograph a bird in a tree. From one angle, you might be able to see power lines or the roof of the house in the background. If you move to a better angle, you may be able to capture the green foliage of the tree as your background instead.
This may seem obvious, but one reason so many photos fail is because the photographer doesn’t bother to make this small extra effort.
Your second goal is to try to reduce the amount of background that is visible in your photo. This can be as simple as getting as close as possible to the subject and using your largest lens. This is a very easy technique. Moving closer ensures the subject fills as much of the frame as possible. Your largest lens (or the largest zoom on your lens) narrows the field of view in a photo so that the focus in on the subject, not on the surroundings.
The extra advantage of a telephoto lens is that it has a naturally small depth of field. This means while your subject is in focus, everything in front and behind is a blur. So not only does the telephoto lens reduce the amount of background that is visible in your photo; what you can see should be completely out of focus.
The final step to eliminate a distracting background is to open the aperture as wide as possible. This is simple photography theory; a wide aperture produces a narrow depth of field. So if you are already using a large lens, and you add a narrow aperture as well, you reduce your depth of field to its absolute minimum. Now you should be able to produce an almost three dimensional image, with your sharply focused subject emerging from a totally out-of-focus background.
As you can see from the simplicity of these guidelines, it is easy to reduce the distraction of an unattractive background. It doesn’t take fancy equipment or a diploma in photography. All it takes is a little extra effort, and understanding how to use the camera you have.
Now consider all the situations where these tips can improve your photos. You could take your wildlife photos at the zoo, or in your own backyard and create the impression they were taken in the wild. Even if your background is not that ugly, it can provide a distraction from the main subject. By putting the background out of focus, it becomes a soft palette of colour that makes the subject really stand out.
The greatest thing is, these are techniques you can try out right now. With digital cameras it costs you nothing to practice - so get out there and start snapping!
ARON
Wildlife photography is such an inspirational field; it is easy to see why so many photographers, both amateur and professional, become fascinated by this rewarding pursuit.
Choosing a good subject for a wildlife photo is never difficult. The variety of characters in the animal kingdom provides a never-ending source of material. Even better, some of the best subjects can be found in the cities, even in our own backyards. You don’t have to be an intrepid world traveller to enjoy a satisfying hobby as a wildlife photographer.
It can be a real challenge to capture a natural looking photo in a suburban setting. If you can eliminate any man-made distractions from your photo, you can create the illusion of an image captured in a totally natural environment.
A bad background can really spoil the impact of a good wildlife subject, but how do we avoid it? Of course these days there are plenty of people who would just edit it out using a computer, but (believe it or not) most people still prefer to rely on their camera skills rather than on software.
Here are some simple tips to help you eliminate a bad background from your wildlife photos.
The first thing to do is simply position yourelf to find the best angle to take your photo. Imagine you are trying to photograph a bird in a tree. From one angle, you might be able to see power lines or the roof of the house in the background. If you move to a better angle, you may be able to capture the green foliage of the tree as your background instead.
This may seem obvious, but one reason so many photos fail is because the photographer doesn’t bother to make this small extra effort.
Your second goal is to try to reduce the amount of background that is visible in your photo. This can be as simple as getting as close as possible to the subject and using your largest lens. This is a very easy technique. Moving closer ensures the subject fills as much of the frame as possible. Your largest lens (or the largest zoom on your lens) narrows the field of view in a photo so that the focus in on the subject, not on the surroundings.
The extra advantage of a telephoto lens is that it has a naturally small depth of field. This means while your subject is in focus, everything in front and behind is a blur. So not only does the telephoto lens reduce the amount of background that is visible in your photo; what you can see should be completely out of focus.
The final step to eliminate a distracting background is to open the aperture as wide as possible. This is simple photography theory; a wide aperture produces a narrow depth of field. So if you are already using a large lens, and you add a narrow aperture as well, you reduce your depth of field to its absolute minimum. Now you should be able to produce an almost three dimensional image, with your sharply focused subject emerging from a totally out-of-focus background.
As you can see from the simplicity of these guidelines, it is easy to reduce the distraction of an unattractive background. It doesn’t take fancy equipment or a diploma in photography. All it takes is a little extra effort, and understanding how to use the camera you have.
Now consider all the situations where these tips can improve your photos. You could take your wildlife photos at the zoo, or in your own backyard and create the impression they were taken in the wild. Even if your background is not that ugly, it can provide a distraction from the main subject. By putting the background out of focus, it becomes a soft palette of colour that makes the subject really stand out.
The greatest thing is, these are techniques you can try out right now. With digital cameras it costs you nothing to practice - so get out there and start snapping!
ARON
Sep
13
Buy New Jersey Devils Tickets Online- a Quick and Easy Way to Get Tickets
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Al Terry asked:
New jersey Devils started their ice hockey tenure in Kansans City, Missouri in 1974. The team moved to Colorado after two seasons, finally settling in New Jersey in 1982. The Devils are a very popular team and it is better to get New Jersey Devils tickets booked in advance for the next season.
The Playing Career
In 1982, John McMullen bought the team. They won their first game against New York Rangers. In the 1983-84 season, the NHL all-star game was hosted by the Devils at the Brendan Nyrne Arena. Glenn “ Chio” Resch and Joe Cirella were the stars of the game, as they led the Wales Conference to victory.
The team improved considerably between 1984 and 1987. Young players like John Maclean, Kirk Muller, and Pat Verbeek were the strong players of the team. In April 1987, Lou Lamoriello was hired as the team coach. In the 1987-88 season, the Devils got off to a first winning record in their 13-year franchise history against the Blackhawks. The next few years saw many coach replacements and not much success in games. In 1992-93, former Montreal Canadiens coach Jacques Lemaire was hired as the Devils coach.
In the 1993-94 season, the team was on an upswing again. Players such as defensemen Scott Stevens, Scott Niedermeyer and Ken Daneyko, forqwrds Stephane Richer, John Maclean, Bobby Holik and Claude Liemieux and goalies Chris Terreri and Martin Brodeur brought the much-needed success to the team. The Devils were now at the third place in the Eastern Conference behind the Penguins and Rangers. The Devils faced the Rangers in a seven game series in a memorable Eastern Conference final match up. Devils Stephane Richer scored the winning goal in the second overtime, giving them to a 3-2 lead in game 6. However, the Devils lost to the Rangers in that game. Devils Vlaeri Zelepukin tied the final game with only 7.7 seconds remaining. They were defeated in a double overtime goal by Stephane Matteau. This series is known to be one of the most memorable series in NHL history. The devils fan following greatly increased after the game with New Jersey Devils tickets getting sold out.
In 1994-95 series, the Devils returned to the Eastern Conference Finals to win the Stanley Cup, defeating the Detroit Red Wings. The Devils won their second Stanley Cup in 1999-00 season, defeating the Dallas Stars in a six game series. Stevens, Holik, Leimieux, Niedermeyer, Brodeur along with new players Patrik Elias, Petr Sykora,Jason Arnott, Alexander Mogilny, Brian rafalski, john Madden and Scott Gomez were the champions of the series. In 2003, the Devils defeated the Ducks to lift the Stanley Cup for the third time.
Being a popular team, the New Jersey Devils tickets are a hot property. Therefore, if you are a Devils fan, it is better to buy the New Jersey Devils tickets in advance. This season is expected to be a roaring one for the Devils.
To buy New Jersey Devils tickets, you can either contact a local ticket broker or an online broker. Getting an online ticket is easy and simple. All you need to do is, choose the seats you want and make an online payment. The tickets will be shipped to you in 24 hours.
PRESTON
New jersey Devils started their ice hockey tenure in Kansans City, Missouri in 1974. The team moved to Colorado after two seasons, finally settling in New Jersey in 1982. The Devils are a very popular team and it is better to get New Jersey Devils tickets booked in advance for the next season.
The Playing Career
In 1982, John McMullen bought the team. They won their first game against New York Rangers. In the 1983-84 season, the NHL all-star game was hosted by the Devils at the Brendan Nyrne Arena. Glenn “ Chio” Resch and Joe Cirella were the stars of the game, as they led the Wales Conference to victory.
The team improved considerably between 1984 and 1987. Young players like John Maclean, Kirk Muller, and Pat Verbeek were the strong players of the team. In April 1987, Lou Lamoriello was hired as the team coach. In the 1987-88 season, the Devils got off to a first winning record in their 13-year franchise history against the Blackhawks. The next few years saw many coach replacements and not much success in games. In 1992-93, former Montreal Canadiens coach Jacques Lemaire was hired as the Devils coach.
In the 1993-94 season, the team was on an upswing again. Players such as defensemen Scott Stevens, Scott Niedermeyer and Ken Daneyko, forqwrds Stephane Richer, John Maclean, Bobby Holik and Claude Liemieux and goalies Chris Terreri and Martin Brodeur brought the much-needed success to the team. The Devils were now at the third place in the Eastern Conference behind the Penguins and Rangers. The Devils faced the Rangers in a seven game series in a memorable Eastern Conference final match up. Devils Stephane Richer scored the winning goal in the second overtime, giving them to a 3-2 lead in game 6. However, the Devils lost to the Rangers in that game. Devils Vlaeri Zelepukin tied the final game with only 7.7 seconds remaining. They were defeated in a double overtime goal by Stephane Matteau. This series is known to be one of the most memorable series in NHL history. The devils fan following greatly increased after the game with New Jersey Devils tickets getting sold out.
In 1994-95 series, the Devils returned to the Eastern Conference Finals to win the Stanley Cup, defeating the Detroit Red Wings. The Devils won their second Stanley Cup in 1999-00 season, defeating the Dallas Stars in a six game series. Stevens, Holik, Leimieux, Niedermeyer, Brodeur along with new players Patrik Elias, Petr Sykora,Jason Arnott, Alexander Mogilny, Brian rafalski, john Madden and Scott Gomez were the champions of the series. In 2003, the Devils defeated the Ducks to lift the Stanley Cup for the third time.
Being a popular team, the New Jersey Devils tickets are a hot property. Therefore, if you are a Devils fan, it is better to buy the New Jersey Devils tickets in advance. This season is expected to be a roaring one for the Devils.
To buy New Jersey Devils tickets, you can either contact a local ticket broker or an online broker. Getting an online ticket is easy and simple. All you need to do is, choose the seats you want and make an online payment. The tickets will be shipped to you in 24 hours.
PRESTON
Sep
6
Wildlife Photography in a Landscape Setting
Filed Under Art And Entertainment | Comments Off
Andrew Goodall asked:
photography is such a broad topic, it can mean many things to many people. As a wildlife photographer, you need to be able to adapt your style to suit the subject and the surroundings.
Often your subject will be found in a setting that appears unnatural or unattractive in a photograph. For example, you may be taking photos in a zoo, but you don’t want the enclosure to appear in your picture. In these situations, the best approach is to zoom right in on the subject. This eliminates as much of the background as possible, and thanks to a narrow depth of field you can ensure that what little background can be seen is out of focus.
On the other hand, what if your wildlife subject is found in a beautiful landscape? Now you have an opportunity to take a completely different type of wildlife photograph; one in which the focus is not just on the subject, but how it relates to the environment you find it in.
Who hasn’t admired images of majestic elephants or giraffes trekking across an African plain with snow-capped mountains in the distance? In Australia we marvel at shots of kangaroos on a tropical beach, dingos on Fraser island, emus crossing an outback plain.
Photographs like these may have wildlife as the central theme, but as a photographer it is wise to think of them as landscape photographs. By approaching the lighting and composition as you would a landscape, you can use your skills to bring both the subject and its environment into focus.
In terms of lighting, the usual landscape rules apply. Early morning and late afternoon is usually the best time to take your photos, when the light is soft and the contrast is low. The warmth and softness of the light does more than just enhance the landscape; it also adds character to the wildlife, and can eliminate unwanted shadows from the face of the subject. With just the right angle, you may catch that sparkle in the eye that really brings your photo alive.
Just like landscape photography, there are exceptions to this rule. If your subject is found in the rainforest, or other places where there is patchy light and shade, it can be preferable to take your photos on cloudy days. In these conditions the contrast is reduced, allowing a nice even light throughout your photo.
So in terms of lighting, this type of wildlife photography actually calls on all of your usual landscape skills.
What about composition? Again, the methods of composition you apply to landscapes are also a good guide, but the animal subject adds a whole new dimension to the process. The way you position your animal has a big impact on the success of the image.
Remember your rule of thirds? If you don’t know about it, do a quick google search, it is easy to find. If you can position your animal subject according to the rule of thirds, it will add balance to the composition. In fact, I can go even further…if you can position the eyes of the subject near the intersecting lines (according to the rule of thirds), you can add even further impact. Viewers of the photo are drawn to these points in a composition, so this position will create instant eye contact between the subject and the viewer. And with eye contact comes a personal connection that will help viewers really feel something from your picture.
Of course the rule of thirds is not the only approach. In fact, sometimes you can take a better picture by deliberately ignoring the rule and creating something a little more ‘off balance’. But the rule is always a good place to start if you are struggling to find a composition that really works.
Another useful guide is to have your subject facing into the picture, not out of it. The eyes have a very powerful effect in a photo; we tend to look the way they are pointing.
That means if your animal is towards the left of the frame, it should be looking to the right, towards the centre of the picture. If you can set the shot up so that the animal is facing toward something you want to feature in the distance (remember, this is a wildlife photo, but it is also a landscape photo) you can achieve something quite special. Not only will the position of the background object become more prominent, you can actually suggest a relationship between the subject and the surroundings. Your photo will become like a story of the animal and the world it lives in.
All rules are made to be broken, so as a famous pirate once said, “They’re more like guidelines, really.” Nature is so diverse, there is never a single easy way to approach a subject. However, if you can occasionally capture an image that connects the viewer, the animal and the landscape, you will truly have a photograph to remember. In the meantime, you are going to have plenty of fun trying!
LAVERN
photography is such a broad topic, it can mean many things to many people. As a wildlife photographer, you need to be able to adapt your style to suit the subject and the surroundings.
Often your subject will be found in a setting that appears unnatural or unattractive in a photograph. For example, you may be taking photos in a zoo, but you don’t want the enclosure to appear in your picture. In these situations, the best approach is to zoom right in on the subject. This eliminates as much of the background as possible, and thanks to a narrow depth of field you can ensure that what little background can be seen is out of focus.
On the other hand, what if your wildlife subject is found in a beautiful landscape? Now you have an opportunity to take a completely different type of wildlife photograph; one in which the focus is not just on the subject, but how it relates to the environment you find it in.
Who hasn’t admired images of majestic elephants or giraffes trekking across an African plain with snow-capped mountains in the distance? In Australia we marvel at shots of kangaroos on a tropical beach, dingos on Fraser island, emus crossing an outback plain.
Photographs like these may have wildlife as the central theme, but as a photographer it is wise to think of them as landscape photographs. By approaching the lighting and composition as you would a landscape, you can use your skills to bring both the subject and its environment into focus.
In terms of lighting, the usual landscape rules apply. Early morning and late afternoon is usually the best time to take your photos, when the light is soft and the contrast is low. The warmth and softness of the light does more than just enhance the landscape; it also adds character to the wildlife, and can eliminate unwanted shadows from the face of the subject. With just the right angle, you may catch that sparkle in the eye that really brings your photo alive.
Just like landscape photography, there are exceptions to this rule. If your subject is found in the rainforest, or other places where there is patchy light and shade, it can be preferable to take your photos on cloudy days. In these conditions the contrast is reduced, allowing a nice even light throughout your photo.
So in terms of lighting, this type of wildlife photography actually calls on all of your usual landscape skills.
What about composition? Again, the methods of composition you apply to landscapes are also a good guide, but the animal subject adds a whole new dimension to the process. The way you position your animal has a big impact on the success of the image.
Remember your rule of thirds? If you don’t know about it, do a quick google search, it is easy to find. If you can position your animal subject according to the rule of thirds, it will add balance to the composition. In fact, I can go even further…if you can position the eyes of the subject near the intersecting lines (according to the rule of thirds), you can add even further impact. Viewers of the photo are drawn to these points in a composition, so this position will create instant eye contact between the subject and the viewer. And with eye contact comes a personal connection that will help viewers really feel something from your picture.
Of course the rule of thirds is not the only approach. In fact, sometimes you can take a better picture by deliberately ignoring the rule and creating something a little more ‘off balance’. But the rule is always a good place to start if you are struggling to find a composition that really works.
Another useful guide is to have your subject facing into the picture, not out of it. The eyes have a very powerful effect in a photo; we tend to look the way they are pointing.
That means if your animal is towards the left of the frame, it should be looking to the right, towards the centre of the picture. If you can set the shot up so that the animal is facing toward something you want to feature in the distance (remember, this is a wildlife photo, but it is also a landscape photo) you can achieve something quite special. Not only will the position of the background object become more prominent, you can actually suggest a relationship between the subject and the surroundings. Your photo will become like a story of the animal and the world it lives in.
All rules are made to be broken, so as a famous pirate once said, “They’re more like guidelines, really.” Nature is so diverse, there is never a single easy way to approach a subject. However, if you can occasionally capture an image that connects the viewer, the animal and the landscape, you will truly have a photograph to remember. In the meantime, you are going to have plenty of fun trying!
LAVERN
Sep
6
Wildlife Photography: Capturing Images With Character
Filed Under Art And Entertainment | Comments Off
Andrew Goodall asked:
Wildlife photography can inspire photographers of almost any experience level. You don’t need a fancy camera or years of training; anyone with a camera can capture great wildlife images.
For an inexperienced photographer, it is easy to be disappointed with the quality of your results. You see the great photography that can be found in galleries, on calendars and postcards, and wonder why you are not getting the same results.
These days, unfortunately, our first tendency is to blame the camera, assuming that the professionals have much better cameras than yours. Even worse, many people even assume the images are not genuine photos at all; they must have been enhanced or even manufactured on a computer.
The truth is, you don’t need an expensive camera or to be an expert with software to produce good wildlife photos. Don’t forget, great wildlife photography existed long before digital cameras arrived on the scene. In fact, you don’t even need special techniques to take better wildlife photos. There are some simple things you can do that can help you take better wildlife photos no matter what sort of camera you have, or how expert you are in photography.
Here are some simple, low-tech tips for better wildlife photography.
Wildlife Photography Tip #1. Context Matters. A wildlife photo looks best if it is taken in a natural setting, or at least looks that way. You should always consider the background in a wildlife photo. If it is obvious your photo was taken in a zoo, for example, the connection with nature is broken and the background spoils the shot.
Just why is it that some people, when they find a small animal like a frog, a beetle or a lizard…feel the need to pick it up? A photo of an animal in your hand is just the same as the zoo photo - it destroys the illusion of nature that you wanted to capture in the first place. If you can photograph your subject in a natural setting, with the colours of nature in the background, your photo will be much more attractive.
Wildlife Photography Tip #2. If The Background Is Distracting, Get Rid Of It. Sometimes a great subject is found in a terrible setting, and there is nothing you can do to change that. You can, however, minimize the distraction of an unfortunate background, and you don’t need a computer to do it.
Simply get as close to the subject as possible and zoom in with your largest lens. This reduces the depth of field so much that only your subject should be in focus. If any of the background is visible, it will be so far out of focus it won’t be a problem.
Wildlife Photography Tip #3. Unusual Behaviour Makes Unique Photographs. Be patient when taking your wildlife photos. Photography competitions around the world are loades with photos that are perfectly exposed, but completely dull and uninteresting. The shots that stand out are the ones where the subject does something out of the ordinary. I am not talking about tap-dancing in a tutu; all it takes is a yawn, a wink, an interesting turn of the head, a head tucked under a wing…simple things that will set your photo apart from millions of others.
Animals sometimes turn up in unexpected locations which can also add interest to a photo. A kangaroo in the grass is not so unique, but find one on the beach and you have a photo on your hands.
Wildlife Photography Tip #4. The Eyes Are The Key To A Successful Photo. Above all when shooting your wildlife photos, concentrate your attention on the eyes. This is the feature that creates a personal connection between the subject and the viewer. If the eyes are out of focus or lost in shadow, the connection is lost. On the other hand, if the subject is mostly out of focus, or even hidden behind a bush, you can still get a great photo…as long as the eyes are sharp and well captured.
So there you have four easy tips that can add character to your wildlife photography. Note that none of them require special equipment or complex techniques. Like so much of nature photography, a good image is not about technology; it is about timing, patience, and your sensitivity to the subject. Happy Snapping!
MARC
Wildlife photography can inspire photographers of almost any experience level. You don’t need a fancy camera or years of training; anyone with a camera can capture great wildlife images.
For an inexperienced photographer, it is easy to be disappointed with the quality of your results. You see the great photography that can be found in galleries, on calendars and postcards, and wonder why you are not getting the same results.
These days, unfortunately, our first tendency is to blame the camera, assuming that the professionals have much better cameras than yours. Even worse, many people even assume the images are not genuine photos at all; they must have been enhanced or even manufactured on a computer.
The truth is, you don’t need an expensive camera or to be an expert with software to produce good wildlife photos. Don’t forget, great wildlife photography existed long before digital cameras arrived on the scene. In fact, you don’t even need special techniques to take better wildlife photos. There are some simple things you can do that can help you take better wildlife photos no matter what sort of camera you have, or how expert you are in photography.
Here are some simple, low-tech tips for better wildlife photography.
Wildlife Photography Tip #1. Context Matters. A wildlife photo looks best if it is taken in a natural setting, or at least looks that way. You should always consider the background in a wildlife photo. If it is obvious your photo was taken in a zoo, for example, the connection with nature is broken and the background spoils the shot.
Just why is it that some people, when they find a small animal like a frog, a beetle or a lizard…feel the need to pick it up? A photo of an animal in your hand is just the same as the zoo photo - it destroys the illusion of nature that you wanted to capture in the first place. If you can photograph your subject in a natural setting, with the colours of nature in the background, your photo will be much more attractive.
Wildlife Photography Tip #2. If The Background Is Distracting, Get Rid Of It. Sometimes a great subject is found in a terrible setting, and there is nothing you can do to change that. You can, however, minimize the distraction of an unfortunate background, and you don’t need a computer to do it.
Simply get as close to the subject as possible and zoom in with your largest lens. This reduces the depth of field so much that only your subject should be in focus. If any of the background is visible, it will be so far out of focus it won’t be a problem.
Wildlife Photography Tip #3. Unusual Behaviour Makes Unique Photographs. Be patient when taking your wildlife photos. Photography competitions around the world are loades with photos that are perfectly exposed, but completely dull and uninteresting. The shots that stand out are the ones where the subject does something out of the ordinary. I am not talking about tap-dancing in a tutu; all it takes is a yawn, a wink, an interesting turn of the head, a head tucked under a wing…simple things that will set your photo apart from millions of others.
Animals sometimes turn up in unexpected locations which can also add interest to a photo. A kangaroo in the grass is not so unique, but find one on the beach and you have a photo on your hands.
Wildlife Photography Tip #4. The Eyes Are The Key To A Successful Photo. Above all when shooting your wildlife photos, concentrate your attention on the eyes. This is the feature that creates a personal connection between the subject and the viewer. If the eyes are out of focus or lost in shadow, the connection is lost. On the other hand, if the subject is mostly out of focus, or even hidden behind a bush, you can still get a great photo…as long as the eyes are sharp and well captured.
So there you have four easy tips that can add character to your wildlife photography. Note that none of them require special equipment or complex techniques. Like so much of nature photography, a good image is not about technology; it is about timing, patience, and your sensitivity to the subject. Happy Snapping!
MARC
Sep
3
Nature Photography: Five Tips for Great Wildlife Photos
Filed Under Art And Entertainment | Comments Off
Andrew Goodall asked:
Wildlife photography can be one of the most challenging and rewarding fields of nature photography. With digital cameras creating such widespread interest in all types of photography, new photographers all over the world are taking an interest in wildlife photography.
Most of the photography guides these days focus on the technical aspects of the camera: but really good photography relies more on composition, lighting, and sensitivity to your subject. This means you can improve your photography by thinking creatively, not technically.
Here are five of my top tips for taking better wildlife photographs.
Wildlife Photography Tip #1. Get to the subject’s eye level. Wildlife photos are most effective if they create an intimate connection between the subject and the viewer. The best way to do this is to take your photo at the subject’s eye level. This way, your wildlife photo can create the illusion of sharing a moment inside the world of the subject, rather than from the outside looking in.
If, for example, your subject is low to the ground (like a lizard, frog, or even a pet), crouch or lie flat, getting as low as possible so you can take your photo at the subject’s eye level.
Wildlife Photography Tip #2.It’s All In The Eyes. The personal connection mentioned in tip #1 is really about eye contact, so it is important to get the eyes right. If the eyes in your wildlife photo are sharp and clear, the photo will probably work. If they are out of focus, lost in shadow, or if the subject blinks or turns its eyes away, the connection will be lost, and the photo will almost certainly fail.
You don’t even need your whole subject to be in focus. Your animal could be mostly hidden by leaves, in shadow and out of focus. The picture could still work…as long as the eyes are open and captured sharply in the picture.
Wildlife Photography Tip #3. If The Background Doesn’t Help, Get Rid Of It. Many wildlife photos are spoiled because the background is cluttered, distracting, ugly, or just plain inappropriate. For example, seagulls on a beach can be quite beautiful, but seagulls at the local rubbish tip is a different matter. Also, wildlife photos look far less natural if you can tell they were taken in a zoo. Apply this principle: “Anything that does not make my photo better, makes it worse.”
This does not mean you can’t take a good wildlife photo at the zoo, at the tip, or anywhere else for that matter. You just need to manage it. If your background is spoiling your shot, zoom right in on the subject to eliminate as much of the background as possible. By zooming in, you will also reduce the depth of field to a minimum, so any background that does appear in your photo will be out of focus and less distracting.
Wildlife Photography Tip #4. If Your Background Is Working For You, Use It Well. A wildlife photograph that captures the subject in a beautiful natural setting can be even more effective than a simple close-up. My photos of a kangaroo on the beach, for example, show the subject in an unexpected context, making a more interesting image than a close-up portrait style photo.
If you take your wildlife subject as part of a wider landscape, you need to consider all the techniques of composition that apply to landscape photography. Remember the rule of thirds (which may or may not help) and be careful to position your animal so that the subject and the background work together to make a more effective composition. In particular, try to position your wildlife subject so that it looks toward the centre of the picture, not towards the edge of the frame.
Wildlife Photography Tip #5. Capture your subject in the best possible light. Even the most perfectly composed wildlife photo can fail because of bad lighting. Losing your subject in the shadows, glare reflecting off shiny feathers, and shadows across the face of the subject are all simple mistakes that can ruin a photo.
There is no single rule for lighting in a wildlife photograph, but here are some suggestions. I often find the best results when the sky is lightly overcast with thin cloud. This produces light that is bright, but soft and even compared to full sunlight. Your subject will be well illuminated, but you avoid harsh contrast and heavy shadows that rob the image of important detail.
If the weather is sunny, try to take your photos early and late in the day when the sun is low. At these times the light is soft and warmly coloured. It is also easier to catch the full face of your subject in sunlight, rather than half-obscured by shadow.
So there you have my five tips for wildlife photography. I could cheat and add tip #6: take lots of photos. Animals move, blink, flap their wings, and generally find ways to frustrate the wildlife photographer. Don’t forget, with digital photography it costs you nothing to keep snapping. So practice, persevere, and try out these tips…you could be taking better photos in no time.
HERSCHEL
Wildlife photography can be one of the most challenging and rewarding fields of nature photography. With digital cameras creating such widespread interest in all types of photography, new photographers all over the world are taking an interest in wildlife photography.
Most of the photography guides these days focus on the technical aspects of the camera: but really good photography relies more on composition, lighting, and sensitivity to your subject. This means you can improve your photography by thinking creatively, not technically.
Here are five of my top tips for taking better wildlife photographs.
Wildlife Photography Tip #1. Get to the subject’s eye level. Wildlife photos are most effective if they create an intimate connection between the subject and the viewer. The best way to do this is to take your photo at the subject’s eye level. This way, your wildlife photo can create the illusion of sharing a moment inside the world of the subject, rather than from the outside looking in.
If, for example, your subject is low to the ground (like a lizard, frog, or even a pet), crouch or lie flat, getting as low as possible so you can take your photo at the subject’s eye level.
Wildlife Photography Tip #2.It’s All In The Eyes. The personal connection mentioned in tip #1 is really about eye contact, so it is important to get the eyes right. If the eyes in your wildlife photo are sharp and clear, the photo will probably work. If they are out of focus, lost in shadow, or if the subject blinks or turns its eyes away, the connection will be lost, and the photo will almost certainly fail.
You don’t even need your whole subject to be in focus. Your animal could be mostly hidden by leaves, in shadow and out of focus. The picture could still work…as long as the eyes are open and captured sharply in the picture.
Wildlife Photography Tip #3. If The Background Doesn’t Help, Get Rid Of It. Many wildlife photos are spoiled because the background is cluttered, distracting, ugly, or just plain inappropriate. For example, seagulls on a beach can be quite beautiful, but seagulls at the local rubbish tip is a different matter. Also, wildlife photos look far less natural if you can tell they were taken in a zoo. Apply this principle: “Anything that does not make my photo better, makes it worse.”
This does not mean you can’t take a good wildlife photo at the zoo, at the tip, or anywhere else for that matter. You just need to manage it. If your background is spoiling your shot, zoom right in on the subject to eliminate as much of the background as possible. By zooming in, you will also reduce the depth of field to a minimum, so any background that does appear in your photo will be out of focus and less distracting.
Wildlife Photography Tip #4. If Your Background Is Working For You, Use It Well. A wildlife photograph that captures the subject in a beautiful natural setting can be even more effective than a simple close-up. My photos of a kangaroo on the beach, for example, show the subject in an unexpected context, making a more interesting image than a close-up portrait style photo.
If you take your wildlife subject as part of a wider landscape, you need to consider all the techniques of composition that apply to landscape photography. Remember the rule of thirds (which may or may not help) and be careful to position your animal so that the subject and the background work together to make a more effective composition. In particular, try to position your wildlife subject so that it looks toward the centre of the picture, not towards the edge of the frame.
Wildlife Photography Tip #5. Capture your subject in the best possible light. Even the most perfectly composed wildlife photo can fail because of bad lighting. Losing your subject in the shadows, glare reflecting off shiny feathers, and shadows across the face of the subject are all simple mistakes that can ruin a photo.
There is no single rule for lighting in a wildlife photograph, but here are some suggestions. I often find the best results when the sky is lightly overcast with thin cloud. This produces light that is bright, but soft and even compared to full sunlight. Your subject will be well illuminated, but you avoid harsh contrast and heavy shadows that rob the image of important detail.
If the weather is sunny, try to take your photos early and late in the day when the sun is low. At these times the light is soft and warmly coloured. It is also easier to catch the full face of your subject in sunlight, rather than half-obscured by shadow.
So there you have my five tips for wildlife photography. I could cheat and add tip #6: take lots of photos. Animals move, blink, flap their wings, and generally find ways to frustrate the wildlife photographer. Don’t forget, with digital photography it costs you nothing to keep snapping. So practice, persevere, and try out these tips…you could be taking better photos in no time.
HERSCHEL
Aug
27
Wildlife Photography: Natural Light for Great Wildlife Photos
Filed Under Art And Entertainment | Comments Off
Andrew Goodall asked:
Wildlife photography requires a combination of camera skills, timing and patience. One essential aspect is often forgotten: knowing how to use the light to get the best results from your wildlife photos.
To take a top-class wildlife photograph, you need to know your animal; where to find it, how to approach it without scaring it away, and how to know the precise moment to press the button to capture the character of the subject. Often a wildlife photographer will spend hours trying to get a good shot. What a shame, then, if all that effort is wasted by taking your photo in bad light.
As a nature photographer, I have learned that the ideal light for a photo can vary depending on the subject. Landscape photos are usually best photographed in sunny weather, early in the morning or late in the afternoon when the contrast is low and the light is soft and colouful. On the hand, rainforest photography is usually best in the middle of the day, in cloudy weather to eliminate extremes of light and shade. To understand the best lighting for wildlife photography, you can take a lesson from both landscape and rainforest photography.
To get the best light for a wildlife photo, you are really looking to minimize contrast, and to eliminate shadows from important areas; most importantly across the face of the animal.
If you take your photos in the middle of a sunny day, you are bound to encounter shadows in all the wrong places. Bright light is likely to overexpose parts of the subject, while the face and the underside of the animal could be lost in heavy shadow. The result will be unattractive, and lacking in much of the detail that should give character to your photo.
There is nothing wrong with taking your wildlife photos on a sunny day. Just remember the lesson from landscape photography and seek to take your photos early in the morning and late in the afternoon. At these times the subject is illuminated from a more horizontal angle, so the full face of the animal is well-lit; you are less likely to have shadows over the eyes and other important features. If there are shadows, they will be much softer because the contrast is much lower when the sun is low in the sky.
The light at these times is also much more colourful, with the golden hues you associate with sunrise and sunset. This is a classic technique for improving landscapes, but it can be just as effective for wildlife. The warmth of the light can create an intimacy in your pictures that is completely lost in the harsh light of midday.
The second approach is to follow the rule of rainforest photography, and take your photos in overcast weather. This allows you to catch your subject in very even, low-contrast light.
I find cloudy days particularly useful for animals with glossy surfaces. Frogs, for example, have damp, shiny skin that reflects a lot of light. In glary conditions a green frog may appear mostly grey or silver in a photo. On a cloudy day the same frog will be shown in its true colours.
Birds can often appear more colourful on a cloudy day, for the very same reason. The sun shining on glossy feathers can create a lot of reflection, robbing the photo of its natural colour. It may seem the opposite of what you would expect, but the dull light of a cloudy day can actually produce the truest colours in a bright wildlife subject.
One final question you may ask: should you use a flash to illuminate a wildlife photo? My answer to that is a definite “NO.” Flash photography bathes the subject in white light, coming from directly in front of the subject. It may illuminate the subject, but at the same time rob it of the natural play of light and shade that makes a good photo so appealing.
Some wildlife photography experts use multiple flashes to brightly illuminate a subject from every possible angle. This approach can work very well, but remember; these are experts in flash photography. If you are at the beginner stage, I recommend learning to work with natural light. When you get the hang of it, I guarantee you will be happy with the results.
LYNN
Wildlife photography requires a combination of camera skills, timing and patience. One essential aspect is often forgotten: knowing how to use the light to get the best results from your wildlife photos.
To take a top-class wildlife photograph, you need to know your animal; where to find it, how to approach it without scaring it away, and how to know the precise moment to press the button to capture the character of the subject. Often a wildlife photographer will spend hours trying to get a good shot. What a shame, then, if all that effort is wasted by taking your photo in bad light.
As a nature photographer, I have learned that the ideal light for a photo can vary depending on the subject. Landscape photos are usually best photographed in sunny weather, early in the morning or late in the afternoon when the contrast is low and the light is soft and colouful. On the hand, rainforest photography is usually best in the middle of the day, in cloudy weather to eliminate extremes of light and shade. To understand the best lighting for wildlife photography, you can take a lesson from both landscape and rainforest photography.
To get the best light for a wildlife photo, you are really looking to minimize contrast, and to eliminate shadows from important areas; most importantly across the face of the animal.
If you take your photos in the middle of a sunny day, you are bound to encounter shadows in all the wrong places. Bright light is likely to overexpose parts of the subject, while the face and the underside of the animal could be lost in heavy shadow. The result will be unattractive, and lacking in much of the detail that should give character to your photo.
There is nothing wrong with taking your wildlife photos on a sunny day. Just remember the lesson from landscape photography and seek to take your photos early in the morning and late in the afternoon. At these times the subject is illuminated from a more horizontal angle, so the full face of the animal is well-lit; you are less likely to have shadows over the eyes and other important features. If there are shadows, they will be much softer because the contrast is much lower when the sun is low in the sky.
The light at these times is also much more colourful, with the golden hues you associate with sunrise and sunset. This is a classic technique for improving landscapes, but it can be just as effective for wildlife. The warmth of the light can create an intimacy in your pictures that is completely lost in the harsh light of midday.
The second approach is to follow the rule of rainforest photography, and take your photos in overcast weather. This allows you to catch your subject in very even, low-contrast light.
I find cloudy days particularly useful for animals with glossy surfaces. Frogs, for example, have damp, shiny skin that reflects a lot of light. In glary conditions a green frog may appear mostly grey or silver in a photo. On a cloudy day the same frog will be shown in its true colours.
Birds can often appear more colourful on a cloudy day, for the very same reason. The sun shining on glossy feathers can create a lot of reflection, robbing the photo of its natural colour. It may seem the opposite of what you would expect, but the dull light of a cloudy day can actually produce the truest colours in a bright wildlife subject.
One final question you may ask: should you use a flash to illuminate a wildlife photo? My answer to that is a definite “NO.” Flash photography bathes the subject in white light, coming from directly in front of the subject. It may illuminate the subject, but at the same time rob it of the natural play of light and shade that makes a good photo so appealing.
Some wildlife photography experts use multiple flashes to brightly illuminate a subject from every possible angle. This approach can work very well, but remember; these are experts in flash photography. If you are at the beginner stage, I recommend learning to work with natural light. When you get the hang of it, I guarantee you will be happy with the results.
LYNN
Feb
15
Texas Rangers Baseball Tickets – Book Your Tickets Online!
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Al Terry asked:
Texas Rangers baseball tickets have always enjoyed huge demand owing to the team’s all round performance and some of the best unparalleled performances. Texas Rangers are a professional baseball team based in Arlington, Texas, United States, and are a member of the Western Division of Major League Baseball’s American League. The team has played in the Rangers Ballpark in Arlington from 1994 till date.
Texas Rangers – The Origin And History
The club was founded in 1961 in Washington D.C. and was originally known as the Washington Senators. The team then moved to Arlington in 1972 and came to be known as the Rangers. Like the other three teams; Tampa Bay Ray, Washington Nationals and Seattle Mariners, the Texas Rangers has also not played in the World series yet, since they have never won a league championship.
The team played its first game in April 1972, but lost the game to the California Angels. After the first season, Whitey Herzog took over as the new manager from Ted Williams but was replaced by Billy Martin in 1973. In 1974, the Rangers were the only MLB team to finish over .500 after a two back-to back 100-loss seasons. In the same year, Billy Martin was named the Manager of the Year, Mike Hargrove was named the AL Rookie of the Year, Jeff Burroughs was named the AL Most Valuable Player and Ferguson Jenkins was named the Comeback Player of the year.
The team had excellent performances in the year 1977-79, but after 1981 there were no winnings for another five seasons. Also, during this period, the Rangers faced attendance problems leading to a sharp fall in the Texas Rangers baseball tickets sale. The year 1986 saw the beginning of winnings with the help of rookies like Ruben Sierra and Pete Incaviglia. Finally, the team saw success in the 1990s. In 1995, the Rangers won the game against the Yankees, which was their first and till date, the only play-off victory owing to powerful hitters with Iván Rodríguez, Will Clark, Mark McLemore, Dean Palmer, Rusty Greer, Juan González and Mickey Tettleton.
In the year 1999, Nolan Ryan became the first player of the Rangers to have been elected to the Baseball Hall of Fame. The Rangers struggled through 2002 during which the team’s manager Jerry Narron was fired following the season and was replaced by a seasoned manager, Buck Showalter. During 2004, they played against the Los Angeles Angels of Anaheim and Oakland Athletics and finished at the third place behind the Angels and the A’s. The team fought for consistency in the year 2005. The following year also landed them with a not-so-impressive 80-82 record and they finished third in the American League West.
Texas Rangers Baseball Tickets – Book Your Tickets Through An Authorized Ticket Broker!
It is always advisable to book the Texas Rangers baseball tickets with an authorized ticket broker. Just for a small fee, the brokers give you the convenience of booking tickets online with the click of a mouse. Not only can you have the convenience of booking the tickets from the comfort of your home or office, but you can also have them delivered right at your doorstep.
BENNETT
Texas Rangers baseball tickets have always enjoyed huge demand owing to the team’s all round performance and some of the best unparalleled performances. Texas Rangers are a professional baseball team based in Arlington, Texas, United States, and are a member of the Western Division of Major League Baseball’s American League. The team has played in the Rangers Ballpark in Arlington from 1994 till date.
Texas Rangers – The Origin And History
The club was founded in 1961 in Washington D.C. and was originally known as the Washington Senators. The team then moved to Arlington in 1972 and came to be known as the Rangers. Like the other three teams; Tampa Bay Ray, Washington Nationals and Seattle Mariners, the Texas Rangers has also not played in the World series yet, since they have never won a league championship.
The team played its first game in April 1972, but lost the game to the California Angels. After the first season, Whitey Herzog took over as the new manager from Ted Williams but was replaced by Billy Martin in 1973. In 1974, the Rangers were the only MLB team to finish over .500 after a two back-to back 100-loss seasons. In the same year, Billy Martin was named the Manager of the Year, Mike Hargrove was named the AL Rookie of the Year, Jeff Burroughs was named the AL Most Valuable Player and Ferguson Jenkins was named the Comeback Player of the year.
The team had excellent performances in the year 1977-79, but after 1981 there were no winnings for another five seasons. Also, during this period, the Rangers faced attendance problems leading to a sharp fall in the Texas Rangers baseball tickets sale. The year 1986 saw the beginning of winnings with the help of rookies like Ruben Sierra and Pete Incaviglia. Finally, the team saw success in the 1990s. In 1995, the Rangers won the game against the Yankees, which was their first and till date, the only play-off victory owing to powerful hitters with Iván Rodríguez, Will Clark, Mark McLemore, Dean Palmer, Rusty Greer, Juan González and Mickey Tettleton.
In the year 1999, Nolan Ryan became the first player of the Rangers to have been elected to the Baseball Hall of Fame. The Rangers struggled through 2002 during which the team’s manager Jerry Narron was fired following the season and was replaced by a seasoned manager, Buck Showalter. During 2004, they played against the Los Angeles Angels of Anaheim and Oakland Athletics and finished at the third place behind the Angels and the A’s. The team fought for consistency in the year 2005. The following year also landed them with a not-so-impressive 80-82 record and they finished third in the American League West.
Texas Rangers Baseball Tickets – Book Your Tickets Through An Authorized Ticket Broker!
It is always advisable to book the Texas Rangers baseball tickets with an authorized ticket broker. Just for a small fee, the brokers give you the convenience of booking tickets online with the click of a mouse. Not only can you have the convenience of booking the tickets from the comfort of your home or office, but you can also have them delivered right at your doorstep.
BENNETT